British fashion is one of the best at weaving the country’s characteristic natural landscape into its garments. We’ve already explored how floral patterns capture the essence of English flora, and how the use of pheasants and equestrian-inspired styles reflects the wildlife of the countryside — but there is one pattern that goes far beyond our borders.
It’s the checkered pattern, also known simply as “check”, with a fascinating history that showcases the diversity of its uses. In this article, we’ll tell you more about its story, as well as the best ways to incorporate it into your wardrobe with the help of Hartwell.
A Brief History of Checkered Patterns in Britain
The earliest representations of checkered patterns in fashion date back to the 13th century in southern India. They were worn by field workers in a garment known as the lungi, and the pattern was created through the reuse of different pieces of fabric.
With the rise of regional trade and colonisation, this fabric reached Europe, brought by the people of Great Britain. At that point in history, Scottish tartans were used to distinguish different families in the region, until centuries later they moved away from clan symbolism and entered popular culture.
By the late 1800s, checkered styles gained prominence through Sir Arthur Conan Doyle’s character, Sherlock Holmes. Sidney Paget’s illustrations for The Strand Magazine already depicted Holmes wearing checkered outfits, which were also representative of a particular social class at the time. However, his role in British popular culture was only just beginning.
Classic Sherlock Holmes illustration. Image belonging to the Goldstein Design Museum (Published Online, January 2025)
Checkered Patterns in British Pop Culture
Checkered patterns became firmly established during the 1960s. They were originally used in fitted women’s suits that highlighted the female silhouette. These suits typically consisted of a blazer—whose shoulder pads grew larger by the 1980s, with a slightly looser fit around the hips—and a pencil skirt that fell to the knee.
This style was worn mainly by professional women and university students before it became more mainstream. With the British Invasion of the time—led by musical groups like The Beatles—this fashion trend became known as the “London Look” across the Atlantic.
Tartan print evolved throughout the second half of the 20th century, going from punk rock -where it was adopted as a subversive take on a pattern once associated with royalty- to re-emerging in the 21st century as a staple of the dark academia style. Today, it is worn by celebrities around the world in polished, classy settings.
Green and Brown Checks And The Countryside
Far from London, the checkered style is often used as a reflection of the British countryside. Its brown, green and darker tones echo the natural landscape in a more refined, classy way than camouflage patterns ever could.
Checkered colours that resemble the countryside have grown in popularity recently. On the one hand, they’re fantastic for outdoor activities, but they also work well for walks around the city—whether you want to embrace a country-inspired look or go for a more urban outfit.
How Green and Brown Checks Blend with Outdoor Adventures
Green and brown checkered patterns have long been favoured for outdoor pursuits, not only for their visual connection to the landscape but also for their practicality. These earthy tones blend seamlessly with woodland paths, open fields and winter moorlands, making them a popular choice for jackets, gilets and wool trousers designed for colder weather.
Their subtle hues offer the perfect balance between functionality and style, allowing wearers to stay warm and comfortable while maintaining a polished, heritage-inspired look. In recent years, these patterns have also evolved into versatile staples for everyday winter wear. A green-checked overshirt or a brown-toned wool coat can transition effortlessly from a countryside walk to a city café, giving the outfit a grounded, outdoorsy touch without sacrificing elegance.
This ability to move between rural and urban settings is part of what makes green and brown checks so enduring: they capture the spirit of the British landscape while remaining perfectly suited to modern winter wardrobes.
The Present And Future of Checkered Patterns: How To Add Them To Your Wardrobe
The check pattern has travelled a long way—from the fields of India to Scottish clans, through the punk scene, and into today’s polished, classy style. Its presence and future in the fashion world are both well-established and refreshingly unpredictable.
In this decade, it will continue to add a touch of elegance to any outfit you pair it with. The best part is that it’s no longer limited to jackets or trousers; you can now find this pattern across a wider range of garments, giving you more room to experiment. Below, we’ll show you which Hartwell pieces can help you create the perfect check-inspired look.
Hartwell’s Finest Checks
Classics never go out of style, which is why a check coat deserves a place in your wardrobe, ready for the perfect occasion. With our MAGGIE green check coat and ANNA brown check coat, both made from pure wool, you’ll have two outerwear options that will keep you warm and stylish on cold days.
They’re an excellent way to swap your puffer jackets for something more classy and polished, yet still practical enough for running errands or your everyday activities.
For autumn and spring, or those cooler summer evenings, something a little lighter than a coat is often the better choice — like our KATRINA Tartan Wax Cotton Gilet. With the arms left free, it offers greater mobility than a pure wool coat and more breathability when you need it. You can pair it with your favourite long-sleeve top or shirt underneath.
For going to the office, going to class, or adding an elegant touch to your everyday outfit, you can wear our HAZEL Pink Check luxury cotton sateen shirt. You can pair it with moleskin jeans, and in winter, top it with your favourite piece of knitwear to complete the look.
Looking for something you can wear all year round? Then theMARINA Tweed Check Skirt is the one for you. In winter and autumn, you can pair it with a blazer (either checkered or in similar neutral tones) and cream, brown or grey tights for an even more cohesive look.
In summer, you can go for a preppy style by teaming this skirt with a white polo shirt, or choose a more relaxed look with your favourite blouse.
Carry British History and Culture With You Wherever You Go
As we’ve seen throughout its journey, the check pattern is a timeless gem of British fashion. Even with a single garment, you can tailor the style to your liking and wear it for countless occasions. A check piece will never fail to elevate your look, but if you’d prefer, it can also help you create a bold style by mixing different patterns, textures and colours.
With Hartwell Clothing, you can bring this iconic pattern into your wardrobe in the highest quality. We guarantee that, with proper care, our garments will accompany you for many years to come, offering style, durability and a true touch of British heritage in every season.